08 octombrie 2024

Heltec V3 versus LilyGo LoRa T V2 comparision table

These are two LoRa development boards and both are good for Meshtastic networks.

 

LilyGo:

Heltec T3 V2:

 

Key Takeaways

  • Heltec V3 is a better choice if you need better power efficiency and are working on battery-powered IoT applications because the SX1262 LoRa chip consumes less power than the SX1276.
  • LilyGO LoRa32 V2.1 is a good option for projects that don’t need extreme power efficiency but want to use a well-supported and reliable LoRa chip like the SX1276.
  • Both boards offer similar OLED display capabilities using I2C, but the GPIO pin assignments differ, so check compatibility when switching between them.

 

A very quick reference chart for two LoRa modules, the Heltec V2 and LilyGo T V2 (T is with the OLED already mounted).

Feature Heltec V3 LilyGO LoRa32 V2.1
Microcontroller ESP32 (dual-core, 240 MHz) ESP32 (dual-core, 240 MHz)
Flash Memory 8MB 4MB
OLED Display Yes (0.96 inch, 128x64 pixels, I2C) Yes (0.96 inch, 128x64 pixels, I2C)
OLED SDA (I2C) GPIO 4 GPIO 21
OLED SCL (I2C) GPIO 15 GPIO 22
LoRa Chip SX1262 SX1276
LoRa Frequency Bands 868MHz / 915MHz 868MHz / 915MHz
LoRa SPI MISO GPIO 19 GPIO 19
LoRa SPI MOSI GPIO 27 GPIO 27
LoRa SPI SCK GPIO 5 GPIO 5
LoRa SPI CS GPIO 18 GPIO 18
LoRa RESET GPIO 14 GPIO 23
LoRa DIO0 GPIO 26 GPIO 26
LoRa DIO1 GPIO 35 GPIO 33
Power Management Better low-power modes with SX1262 Good, but SX1276 consumes more power
Antenna U.FL connector for external antenna Spring-type antenna (can be replaced)

30 septembrie 2024

Meshtastic ESP_32 DevBoard

Everyone know MESHTASTIC!

It is the promise of a new communication meaning over long distances and without any infrastructure needed.




Somethink preppers love!

This communication system has two important features that make it particularly effective for facilitating message communication over long distances:
-LoRa type modulation;
-Self-configuration of devices in a MESH network.
 

I will not go into details, Google is your friend and you will learn everything about LoRa modulation and MESH networks.


In this post I want to talk about how I made my own devices, using cheap modules available on various sites in China.

Things are not so simple; you need some knowledge in electronics to deal with the ready made modules on the market or you can order some 100% finished products. Then you need to program them but that's pretty straightforward as it can be done via a web flashing tool that work with Chrome browser.

But if you are a BRAVE HAM like I am and you already have some modules in the junk box, you may want to make it more flexibile from more basic components.

First, the ESP-32 to SX-1278 module (LoRa Transceiver) is this:


Pretty straightforward; the LoRa TRX communicate with ESP32 via SPI interface.

As we're gonna use the already compiled firmware "Meshtastic DIY", I used the connection from that firmware:

MISO > D19

MOSI > D27

NSS/CS > D18

SCK > D5

RST > D23

DIO0 > D26

But, if I was going to design the board, I must do there something to have some features for future experiments...

So, a number of GPIOs were provided.

A special circuit to activate or deactivate the GPS to save some power was added; the special High-Side switch circuit AP2151 was put into design.

Because, sometime, the circuit is not available, U3 can be tied to 3V3 to keep GPS permanently powered.


Then, two 18650 LiIon battery holders were provided, and a TP4056 module to charge them.


 

Some users complained about unstable operation when the voltage of the battery drop beyond 3V so, a watchdog circuit was added. This monitor the voltage of the battery and, if the voltage drop under 3V (or any other voltage of the user's choice), the ESP32 will be kept into RESET mode until the battery is recharged.

The circuit of choice was TLV840MADL30DBVRQ1.

 

 

What other features the board have?

Well, maybe I want to have an external antenna; the SX1278 module came with some kind of short antenna at the end of a thin coaxial pigtail but an external one increase the range of the radio link.  I sometime want to use SMA antennas but to be able to use BNC ones if I want to!

Being a BRAVE but sometimes UNDECIDED ham, I provided the PCB for both kind of connectors. Just a small cut-and-solder of that coaxial and the problem is solved!


 

The GPS of choice ISN'T a uBlox but the but, when designing the PCB, the footprint of the Neo6M was satisfactory to allow installation of several types.


What other feature? Well, a voltage divider to measure the battery voltage, I2C connectors provided for an OLED and for a BME80 pressure/temperature monitor and, of course, a lot of GPIOs spreaded all around the board but some grouped together for some sort of a future expansion board on pogo pins...

In the development process, I ordered the PCB's with some componentes mounted directly in China.

I hoped to solve three problems simultaneously: make the PCBs, buy the components and, if they have to come together, they'd better come mounted on the board! But the count at the fair doesn't match the count at home so, when I received the first version of the PCB, I realized that I had made some major mistakes, which could only be corrected by redesigning it. So, I redesigned it, changed its color from black to blue, made it thinner, from 2mm to just 1mm and ordered it without the components mounted because I was going to transfer them from the V1 boards to the V2 boards...


Then, after I had done the transfer on all ten boards, I realized that in the selection process I had ordered the wrong circuit... AP2141 instead of AP2151. The difference? Well, the former commands the GPS when the command pin is grounded and the later, correctly, commands the GPS when it receives the positive voltage command. So I've hit the wall again...

Fortunately (remember?) I provided a hardware mean to permanently power the GPS... :-)



Next comes replacing that circuit, then will be another hassle...

That's when ham radio bravery goes out after midnight, that's when I get these ideas! 

You can find all the relevant documentation on my Github repository.

LE:

Farnell was very fast and the correct AP2151 is now installed on all boards and everything is performing as expected!

Cheers!


28 august 2024

Kenwood TH-D74 battery indicator and some battery measurements

 During the years of use of my Kenwood TH-D74 I noticed that the battery indicator is a little bit confusing.

I never knew precisely how much "juice" I had in the battery from what the radio show on the LCD indicator.

So, being a brave ham I decided to put some clips on the battery contacts and make some measurements and correlate them with that little icon on the upper right side of the screen.

 

Under 7.2V:

 

7.2V - 7.4V 



7.4V - 8.0V


8.0 V - 8.4V

Between 7.2 and 7.3V, the battery indicator is changing the colour from red to green.

The observation was made with the voltage going from 8.4V to 5.5V - the lowest voltage for which the radio is still working.

Having the radio already connected to my smart power supply, I thought it is the right occasion to make some measurements for the current draw in various configurations.

Here they are...

-GPS OFF

-Battery Save OFF

-SQ ON

-TNC OFF

VFO A: 160 mA

VFO B: 168 mA

VFO A + VFO B: 205 mA

VFO A + VFO B, SQ ON, vol@1/2: 270 mA

FM Radio ON: 210 mA

SD Rec ON:  +15 mA

GPS ON: +30 mA

TNC ON: +~ 2mA

What about when transmitting?

Well, here they are, also:

EL (Extra Low)

VHF: 465 mA

UHF: 401 mA

L (Low)

VHF: 775 mA

UHF: 708 mA

M (Medium)

VHF: 1060 mA

UHF: 990 mA

H (High)

VHF: 1868 mA

UHF: 1920 mA

I want to stress out that these values are determined against my radio and can vary on others.

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